Daring but Wearable: Copenhagen Fashion Week AW23

Over the past few years smaller fashion weeks have received an increase in both respect and coverage from the traditional fashion media. This is especially true for Copenhagen Fashion Week. Some of this media attention can be attributed to the rise in popularity of Scandinavia based influencers such as Matilda Djerf. Celebrated for their seemingly effortless minimalist street style and unique, uninhibited way of layering, the Scandavians are a breath of fresh air from the traditional big four fashion weeks.

Featuring both established brands and newcomers, CPHFW AW23 was a mix of the weird and the wonderful, unsurprisingly without their signature minimalism. Like all major fashion moments of the 2020s it was accompanied by a TikTok trend. Enjoyed by many, “how to dress like a Danish fashion influencer” TikToks were all over our For You pages. So, let’s take a look at the four Copenhagen shows that got people talking this season.

1. Ganni

Founded in 2008, Ganni is arguably one of the most famous and the most experienced brands at CPHFW. Known for their crisp, clean and cool aesthetic, this time around the husband and wife director duo went for a reflective collection. Velvet sequins and ruffles came down the runway, and every look spoke directly to the affectionately named “Ganni Girls”; a revolution of women embracing fun, feminine dressing that sparks joy.

Models walked confidently down the runway in looks that screamed self love, acceptance and a desire to be seen and heard. This perfectly reflects the energy around womanhood today: intersectional and yet still individual. You couldn’t help but smile at the variety of the message of what it means to be a woman today.

2. (di)vision

This might be a controversial choice, especially since the Schiaparelli show where I spoke about the balance between stunt and statement. Unsurprisingly the conversation about this balance made its way into CPHFW too.

Sibling duo Simon and Nanna Wick presented a show around the idea of an after-party. The Instagram teaser featured a POV video of a person messily eating a lunch of oysters, fries and red wine; with the caption stating the importance of making the most of everyday. This food theme continued into the show which was in fact well thought out.

But the viral moment was when Simon Wick’s partner (Sarah Dahl), who appeared to be one of the many guests seated around dinner tables, stood up and walked in the show. With her she took the wine stained tablecloth which was in fact part of her dress. The splash (pun intended) made the lesser known brand go viral on social media and restart the Stunt vs Statement conversation.

Regardless of what you believe, even this alleged stunt was very Copenhagen. Appearingly low-budget, featuring family and friends as models, a cover band performing and Asics trainers; this is far from the glitz and glamour of the big 4 show. Yet, it had the same large impact and without any celebrity guests.

3. Aeron

Ethical knitwear brand Aeron opened CPHFW with their signature classic silhouettes and clean aesthetic, but with a Danish twist. Often fashion media is extremely detached from what is actually appropriate to wear in the office.

This is where Aeron comes in. Creating knitwear pieces that are work-appropriate, ethical and spark joy, it’s interesting to see extremely wearable pieces on the runway.

Diversity in models is something that has (thankfully) become the norm during CPHFW, but Aeron does this especially well. The models were a variety of skin tones, ages and body shapes, perfectly fitting in with their slogan: “in celebration of all women”.

Yes, the pieces were beautiful. Yes, they were well made. What really made an impact however, was the reality. “Romanticising” every day is a current trend but Aeron made it a reality. Who knew that being a regular woman, commuting to her 9-5 could be reimagined as a fantasy.

4. Holzweiler

As brands grow there are always fears that instead of digging deeper into their identity and what they do amazingly, brands will fall into the trap of acting how they think someone of their new stature should act. Thankfully this was not the case with this Holzweiler collection.

Known for their outerwear and scarves, the sibling duo founders Susanne and Andreas Holzweiler, along with creative director and Andreas’ wife Maria, have returned to their roots, digging deeper into their brand identity. 

Interesting shapes and colours, trailing ruffles that made the pieces look somewhat unfinished but also added movement. This whole collection is likely to be highly coveted in an instance. The line between wearable and conceptual is often poorly toed, meaning that consumers have to choose highly impractical pieces or watered down rudimentary versions of runway pieces. Holzweiler solves this problem, creating pieces that are just weird enough to get a second look but still practical enough that you can fit on the tube.

They make us rethink who interesting (think of new weird) pieces are for. According to them, they’re for everyone, everyday.

What was your favourite CPHFW AW23 show? Tweet us @guapmag and let us know.

Read more GUAP fashion week content here.