R.L.E Makes A Loud Noise with SS24 Collection: Murmur

Known for their ability to produce beautiful, ethereal clothing that is both sustainable and inventive, R.L.E’s SS24 collection was highly anticipated. While themes of exploring nature and introspection have been present since her graduate collection, founder Qixin Zhang has made a clear effort to grow and develop with every offering. Her SS24 collection: Murmur follows this pattern.

The show took place in a grand building in the heart of Bank, where the Bank of England is based. This may seem like an odd venue for a brand that’s known for floaty fabrics and pastel toned knitwear, but as Zhang took us through the journey of this collection, everything fell into place.

The collection began with a near transparent look. The lights were low as the model elegantly floated down the steps, before the spotlights turned on illuminating the first look. A barely there knitted top with several cut outs and spaghetti straps in the perfect nude hue, was paired with a sheer voluptuous full length shirt. As the model made her way back down the runway the rear of the top was revealed: a floor length train with the same highly textured fabrication. Post show details reveal that this look was made using a new innovative technique called “Yuan Technique”. Directly translating into “Circle”, this involves the collection of fabric scraps of other SS24 R.L.E designs and using their signature 3D yarn technique to create a new stretchable textile form. The result: an airy, unique and breathtakingly beautiful opener to the show.

Beyond the immediate thoughts of a soft, background sound that the word Murmur brings to the forefront of our minds, Zhang had a different interpretation, inviting the audience into a deeper meaning. Beyond being soft and in the background a murmur is continuous and notable. With this collection Zhang wanted to dive into the power of tapping into one’s true essence, in a world that constantly aims to put us into pre-defined boxes. It’s not noise and fighting to be seen that has true impact, but the subtle yet intentional decision to express our inner creativity authentically.

This mission was clearly communicated in the collection. Yes, the colour palette was light with whites, pastels and beige being the key hues used but it was far from forgettable. Their contrast against the wide black catwalk and the foreboding pillars and old-time grandeur of the venue was not a happy mistake. From the knitted hair pieces, to the use of silk organza, the use of monochromatic styling and bow accessories; the power of a whisper was loud and clear.

Citing the Betta fish as a key source of inspiration this was at the forefront of some designs more than others in particular look 18, a fishtail gown with sage and teal sheer organza hemline and the look 32, a silver bodysuit with a glass-like 3D bust detailing that was reminiscent of a splash of water frozen mid air. While every piece tied in together with the wider message of the collection, the standouts were “tear knot” pieces. Especially the finale dress with the aforementioned Yuan Technique this time made into a blue to white ombre dress with a waterfall hemline and layered over a structured matching cornflower blue bodysuit. 

For the past few years sustainability has been fashion’s favourite buzzword. While some pay lip service to the cause continuing to sacrifice the environment for beautiful pieces and others take environment issues seriously but fail to make beautiful consumer-coveted pieces; R.L.E manages to do both. All while making us think about society, look within ourselves and imagine ways the world could be different. Escapism by diving into oneself. Genius.

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