Aarti Vijay Gupta FW25: A collision of ancient & contemporary through the integration of art and fashion

Written by Morola Oyefesobi

Gupta bends and blends the constraints of traditional Indian clothing and gives them a new lease on life by creating a collision of ancient and contemporary stylings through the intersection of art and fashion. We take a deep dive into the history of this Indian art style, and follow the folklore that defines Gupta’s newest collection, watching the risks she takes to modernise the genre.

The highly anticipated FW presentation took centre stage at St. John’s Church, in the halls of Hyde Park crescent. As I walked into the venue, I was overtaken by the beauty of the archaic space. The structure acts as an omnipresent figure through the show’s run, the hum of the stained glass lends an elusive backdrop to the top of the runway, shining a halo on the models descending from stage left. Myself and the rest of the audience were seated amongst the columns and dust of this 19th century building. I thought the catholic relic to be an interesting location for Gupta to hold court for this collection, as it’s inspired by 19th century Kalighat paintings. 

“Kalighat painting evolved as a unique genre of Indian painting in 19th-century Kolkata, from the depiction of gods and other mythological characters” (V&A, 2025). A clothing line derived from a painting practice steeped in Hindu mythology seems juxtaposed to its holy anglo-christian runway setting. The Aarti Vijay Gupta team had this to say about the choice:

“We are an art-based label, and we always draw inspiration from history and age-old crafts. This church, a nearly 150-year old heritage property in central London, is beautifully archaic, with stunning exteriors and interiors that seamlessly blend art and nature”

I, however, believe that the church acts as a metaphor for the designer’s collection; “a collision of ancient and contemporary defined by the integration of art and fashion.”

Kalighat paintings are characterised by their bright colours and bold outlines. This art style has evolved and developed over the years, originating in the 1830s. Traditionally Kalighat Pautas (painters) would create artwork to sell at markets to make a living, sold to foreign travelers looking to take a piece of India back home with them. In a way, Gupta has become a modern day Pauta, “refracting folklore into signature prints at the intersection of art, culture, and contemporaneity.” She’s inspired to keep tradition alive, using art and clothing as the media. This collection was brought to life through meticulous research and partnerships with Indian artisans: Mimoni Chitrakar and Sameer Chitrakar from the Midnapur district in Kolkata.

I was excited to see Gupta take advantage of upcoming fashion trends and silhouettes in this collection, putting her own contemporary spin on things through the medium of print. She effortlessly weaves in modern silhouettes with traditional Indian styles. The menswear pieces however were not inspired by any particular piece. Keeping in mind the brand’s global language and Midnapur’s traditional clothing, the styles were merged to create a line that is rooted in art and culture without abandoning modernity. 

A lilting nursery rhyme was chosen as the background vocals for the runway show. Haunting and repetitive, it acted as a vision to the history of the collection. A child singing a simple song, a couple lines in native tongue. The voice was backed by sounds of nature, cawing birds, blowing wind and rushing water. The name of the song is Peter Gaan. It is sung by the artisans, singing about the art they have created. “We used our song, which talks about the art we have used for the show.” 

The show held a dominating presence, through its use of harsh lighting. The use of full stage lighting shows a stark contrast to the dark grungy ambience that’s synonymous with London Fashion Week. But Gupta wants you to look at the clothes, full, naked, no distractions. Peer in and notice the unbroken pattern detail across the blouse, “vibrant prints drawing inspiration from Indian craft and culture are rendered on luxury fabrics with innovative unbroken pattern cutting allowing artwork to be replicated across garments in its most complete form uninterrupted by seams.”

Aarti Vijay Gupta has put together a spell-binding FW25 collection, artistically weaving through ancient Kolkata practices with a modern and point of view. I’m excited to see how she grows as a designer and where she plans to take her story next.

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