Milan Men’s AW23 fashion week has kicked off with Gucci’s first solo men’s show in three years. Expectations were high, most of us curious to see what a post Michele Gucci looked like, after his departure last year. Models walked down the circular runway around a live band as they played soft rock music. The show opened with a custom composition of Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog sung in mellow tones complimenting the sand wide-leg trousers of the first look.
The tempo and intensity of the band increased as more colour was introduced with each look. Starting with a trench coat in rich Amethyst to pink holdalls and jaw-dropping shell-like sequined jacket with oversized lapels.
It’s clear that Gucci is bringing sexy back with a rockstar edge, from the music to the low necklines. Michele’s legacy of perfectly balanced androgynous dressing is thankfully still evident with every piece. Each of the 48 looks had beautiful elements, fabrics and craftsmanship were unquestionably far from lacking but sadly the show seemed to lack cohesion.
Individually the looks were stunning and could be styled by a wide variety of fashion-conscious people; genuinely on anyone who has a good eye. Nonetheless, Gucci needs a new creative director and fast; someone to connect the dots. This a new era for Gucci, but what that new era will look like (or what, perhaps more importantly, it will sell like) will be interesting to see.
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